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Elbrus Expedition - 7 Summits - from Argentina - Caucasus, Europe, Russia

A 10-day expedition in the Russian Caucasus, to the highest mountain in Europe

  • DateOn request
  • Duration10 days
  • Meeting PointCity of Mineralnye Vody
  • DifficultyDemanding

The trip

From the Forgotten Caucasus to the 7 Summits

Elbrus is a dormant stratovolcano located in the western part of the Caucasus range, in Kabardino-Balkaria (Russia), near the border with Georgia. It is the highest point in Europe, making it one of the 7 Summits, the highest peak on each continent.

It is the highest mountain in Russia and in the Caucasus range, which, together with the Ural Mountains, traditionally marks the border between Europe and Asia.
The lower of Elbrus's two summits was first climbed on July 10, 1829 (Julian calendar) by Killar Khashirov, a Karachay guide.
Since this is an artificial border, the northern part of the Caucasus is considered European and the southern part Asian. Therefore, Mount Elbrus, at 5642 m in the northern Caucasus, is the highest mountain in Europe.
It was traditionally believed that the legendary Mont Blanc was the highest in Europe; however, Elbrus exceeds it considerably.
Even today it remains a matter of dispute due to its position on the boundary between Europe and Asia, in the Caucasus.

 

PLANNED ITINERARY

 

Day O. MOSCOW - Meeting/arrival in Moscow. We'll use this day to get together and explore some of this legendary city. Rest. Those who prefer can meet us directly in Mineralnye Vody

Day 1. MINERALNYE VODY. Meeting at Mineralnye Vody airport at 2:00pm. The local guide will be waiting at the airport to accompany us. Bus ride (3 to 3.5 hours) to the Snezhny Bars (Snow Leopard) Hotel (2100 m) in the Baksan Valley, near the base of Mount Elbrus. The hotel has double and triple rooms. Single rooms are available at an extra cost, depending on hotel availability. On this day you can rent extra gear needed for trekking: trekking shoes, poles, sunglasses, jacket, etc. Overnight at the hotel.

Day 2. Acclimatization. Climb to the Cheget-2 cable car station (2750 m) on Mount Cheget, 2.5 to 3.5 hours up and about 1 hour down. Overnight at the hotel.

Day 3. Acclimatization. Climb to the Cheget-3 cable car station (3000 m) on Mount Cheget (3 to 4 hours up and 1.5 hours down). The other option is to climb Terskol Peak (3150 m) (4 to 5 hours up and 1.5 to 2 hours down). The choice will depend on the group's physical condition and weather conditions. Overnight at the hotel.

Day 4. Acclimatization. We head to the Azau Valley. We take the lifts up to the Mir cable car station (3500 m). Climb to Priut 11 (4100 m). Descent to the hotel. Last day at the hotel. Free time to finish gathering the necessary gear: mountain boots, crampons, harness, warm jacket, sleeping bag, etc. Overnight at the hotel.

Day 5. On this day we move to the mountain refuge (3800 m). Any gear we won't use on the ascent can be left at the hotel. We reach the refuge using the lifts. At the refuge we'll have a light lunch. To continue acclimatizing we'll climb up to 4400-4500 m. Overnight at the refuge.

Day 6. Climb to Pastukhov Rocks (4800 m), 6 hours up and 2 hours down. Overnight at the refuge.

Day 7. Rest day. On this day we'll do a snow and ice course with the guide near the refuge: use of crampons, how to walk on ice,  self-arrest techniques with an ice axe on a slope, etc. Overnight at the refuge.

Day 8. Summit day. We leave the refuge at approximately 3 am and head for the west summit of Mount Elbrus (5642 m). It's possible to rent a snow vehicle, which can carry up to 12 people to Pastukhov Rocks and save 4 hours of walking. Generally, for an average group, it takes 9 hours to reach the summit and 5 hours to return to the refuge.

We generally spend the night at the refuge. If all group members return from the summit before 3 pm, we could consider descending to the valley and spending the night at the hotel. However, keep in mind that this would mean an extra payment for the hotel night, since the refuge night is already paid for.

Day 9.  This day is a backup in case of bad weather on summit day. If the group attempts the summit on this day, the descent to the valley must happen that same night without exception, which can be a bit tough since the lifts stop running at 4 pm. Back at the hotel we'll have dinner along with the presentation of Elbrus ascent certificates. Overnight at the hotel.

Day 10. Transfer to Mineralnye Vody airport in the morning. End of the expedition

Good to know

This is a high-altitude mountain expedition, with the added benefit of traveling with a guide-coordinator from Argentina and having good camp service, meals and gear porters. Even so, it's best to prepare properly and have prior experience in ascents and/or long-distance (LR) treks.

What is included

  • Visa invitation letter. (sent once the booking is made and a copy of the passport is received).
  • Local registration of foreigners in accordance with Russian law.
  • Transportation: Airport-Terskol-airport transfer.
  • 5 nights at the 3-star Snezhny Bars Hotel, double or triple room at the foot of Elbrus.
  • 4 nights at the Heart of Elbrus mountain refuge (3800 m), shared room for up to 8 people.
  • Cable car tickets: two ascents and two descents.
  • All meals during the expedition.
  • One lead guide throughout the expedition and assistant guides for the summit at a 1:3 ratio.
  • One summit attempt. (an additional summit attempt can be booked for €350)
  • Mount Elbrus ascent certificate.
  • Park entry fee.

Not included

  • Travel to Russia
  • Travel insurance
  • Snow vehicle (Ratrak) on summit day. The cost depends on the number of passengers. Up to 4400 m it costs €500, and up to 4800-4900 m €800 per vehicle (max. 12-14 passengers). The vehicle can also be booked for the descent.
  • Single room, €150 for 5 hotel nights. 
  • Rental of mountain gear: sleeping bag, boots, crampons, etc.
  • An additional summit attempt if the first one is unsuccessful.
  • Additional hotel nights
  • Visas. Other

Recommended gear

  • Small trekking backpack (35 to 50 liters) - With a hip belt 
  • A duffel bag for gear transport
  • 1 suitcase or bag for travel (the duffel bag can go inside this suitcase)
  • Warm sleeping bag ( –15 degrees comfort rating, e.g. 800/1000g of good down or synthetic fill).
  • Sleeping pad (10 to 15mm).
  • Inflatable sleeping pad (optional)
  • Trekking poles 
FEET
  • 1 pair of good-quality mountain boots. Ask us about possible models. 
  • 1 lightweight pair of trekking shoes as a spare
FIRST LAYER (Base layer)
  • Changes of underwear.
  • Cotton t-shirts (for camp and sleeping)
  • Synthetic short-sleeve shirts/t-shirts
  • Synthetic long-sleeve shirt
  • Polypropylene or similar pants/leggings (not cotton). To use as a base layer under warm clothing
  • Thin polypropylene or similar gloves (not cotton)
  • Pairs of thin polypropylene or similar socks (not cotton), worn against the skin.
  • Buff-type multifunction neck gaiter
SECOND LAYER (Warmth)
  • Pairs of trekking socks (synthetic-thermal)
  • Pairs of thick mountain socks
  • Some cotton or wool socks (wool is good for sleeping)
  • Long trekking pants
  • Warm layers (fleece, softshell or similar)
  • Down jacket
  • Fleece gloves
  • Warm hat (fleece)
  • Sun cap (with flaps)
THIRD LAYER (windproof and waterproof)
  • Waterproof jacket  (Ultrex, Gore-Tex or similar)
  • Pant cover (Gore-Tex or similar, or ski-type)
  • Third-layer gloves or mittens (waterproof and breathable). Ski-type is fine
  • Mountain gaiters
PERSONAL ITEMS
  • Passport.
  • Medical insurance, health insurance.
  • Completed medical and personal form, authorization.
MISCELLANEOUS
  • Headlamp with batteries (plus spare batteries).
  • Sturdy plastic bags to store clothing.
  • 2 wide-mouth bottles (Nalgene-type), for hydration.
HEALTH & HYGIENE
  • Sunglasses with UV Category 4 protection
  • Spare glasses (ski goggles work too, highly recommended)
  • Personal first-aid kit (medication with the relevant prescription).
  • High-factor sunscreen, lip balm
  • Soap, shampoo (small, to share) and small towel.
  • Other items
  • Toilet paper. Tissues. Baby wipes.
  • Shorts/swim trunks 

FAQ

If I've never done mountaineering, can I dream of reaching the highest point in Europe?

As long as you are physically fit and able to handle a high-altitude trekking expedition, there shouldn't be a problem. Except for summit day, this is a progressive trek with movements tied to acclimatization. 

How do you travel to Russia?

We'll advise you on the flight, which has a layover in Moscow. 

I don't have even half of the required gear, can it be rented? What's best to buy?

We'll advise you on this. Read through our list and let us know. From us you can mainly rent a sleeping bag and poles. 

How demanding is this expedition really? How much do we walk per day?

About 4 hours a day during acclimatization, and summit day is the most demanding, with approximately 10-12 hours of activity. 

Where do we sleep?

We sleep at mountain camps, hotels, and special refuges.

How much does the backpack weigh?

Very little — just the gear you use each day; the rest is carried by porters and vehicles. 

What do we eat?

On all our expeditions we provide meals on a FULL BOARD basis.

Here we rely on regional cuisine, which is very hearty.

It is necessary to complete the personal/medical form to note if anyone has any dietary restrictions.

Difficulty graduation

Backpack weight40%
Physical80%
Technical60%
Mental60%
Altitude60%

Scale 0–100%. Argentina Extrema graded difficulty system. How it is measured

Photos and videos

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