May 5, 2025 · Facundo Noba Fioriti
Belay devices: types, how they work and when to use each one
In climbing, the belay device is an essential tool: it lets the belayer manage the rope to protect the climber by stopping a fall and controlling the descent. There are several types, each with its own features, advantages and limitations. In this piece we'll explain the main devices available in the Argentine market, how they work, and what type of climbing they're meant for.
1. Tubular Devices, the Oldest Ones Still in Use 
How do they work?
They use friction between the rope, the device and the carabiner to brake; the rope must always be held by the belayer. The belayer controls the rope's movement with their hand on the brake strand. Some models allow belaying one or two climbers from above at an anchor station.
What sets them apart?
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They're light, compact and versatile.
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They work with a wide range of rope diameters.
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They have no assisted braking system, so they require technique and constant attention.
When are they used?
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In alpine, traditional and multi-pitch climbing.
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For rappelling (a maneuver beyond the scope of this piece).
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When simplicity and total manual control are wanted.
2. Assisted-Braking Tubular Devices
How do they work?
They have a design that takes advantage of the rope's movement and the device's internal shape to automatically lock it against the carabiner in case of a fall, with no moving mechanical parts. The belayer must always keep the brake hand on the free end of the rope.
What sets them apart?
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They have no moving parts or internal mechanisms, so they're less prone to mechanical failure.
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They require the belayer to keep the rope in the correct position (brake hand always pointed down).
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They're slightly lighter and cheaper than mechanical devices.
When are they used?
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Ideal for sport climbing (indoor or outdoor).
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Very useful in courses and with beginners.
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Good balance between safety and simplicity.
3. Mechanical Cam-Braking Devices.
How do they work?
They have an internal mechanism (cam) that activates when it detects a sudden fall: the rope locks automatically. To release the rope, the belayer must unlock the system with a lever or controlled pressure. The brake hand must always be on the rope.
What sets them apart?
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More effective, more secure locking in falls.
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They require practice to feed rope smoothly.
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They're heavier and pricier, but extremely reliable.
When are they used?
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Highly recommended for single-pitch or multi-pitch sport climbing.
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You need to soften the catch when climbing on slabs, so the climber doesn't slam into the wall.
Conclusion
There's no single perfect device: it all depends on the type of climbing you do, your experience, and your personal preferences. What matters is knowing how to use the one you have, understanding how it works, and practicing in controlled settings before taking it to the wall. Safety in climbing starts with knowledge.
In our courses and outings, at Argentina Extrema we work with different systems so each person can choose the one that best fits their style and needs.
You can check our calendar for AEX ROCK AND ICE for our courses and upcoming outings.
