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Ascent of Cerro Aconcagua - 360° Route - Plaza Francia - Plaza de Mulas - Plaza Argentina

A route linking the 3 base camps of the Colossus of the Americas

  • DateOn request
  • Duration19 days
  • Meeting PointMendoza
  • DifficultyDemanding

The trip

Note: The climbing permit for Aconcagua Provincial Park is free for Argentines this 2022 season.

ACONCAGUA is one of the most visited mountains in the world; it is the roof of the Americas and of the entire Western Hemisphere. The desire to reach its summit at 6962 meters draws people from the most far-flung corners of the planet. The weather and high-mountain conditions make this expedition a one-of-a-kind adventure.

In this program we propose doing it in a different, less conventional way, going almost all the way around the Stone Sentinel, linking the Horcones and Vacas valleys and attempting the summit. Unlike the traditional "False Polish" route, here we enter via Plaza de Mulas and exit via Plaza Argentina, so we can also treat ourselves to visiting and getting to know the Plaza Francia camp, at the base of the legendary south face. An option with a bit more difficulty.

 

Our approach to Aconcagua:

We build the group throughout the year, with physical and mental preparation and prior mountain outings. We hold group meetings beforehand with audiovisual materials and specific talks. We advise you on your gear throughout all the months leading up to the trip. It doesn't matter if you don't live in the city of Buenos Aires, where the training sessions take place.

We offer you an itinerary that includes progressive, staged acclimatization.

Argentinos al Aconcagua Project Group on Facebook: CLICK HERE

 

Itinerary - Exclusive Aconcagua program - 360° Route

We recommend spending the night before in the city of Mendoza

 

Planned itinerary:

 

Day 1: Mendoza: Morning meeting in the city of Mendoza. Introduction of guides, gear check, rental guidance, printing permits, packing mule bags, and other tasks. Last-minute shopping. Ask us about accommodation.

Day 2: Mendoza-Penitentes (2700 m). Transfer to the Aconcagua Provincial Park office to request and pay for trekking and climbing permits.  Last-minute shopping. Transfer to Los Penitentes (2700 m). Check-in at a mountain hostel/refuge. Rest, short walks, hydration. Dinner and overnight.

Day 3. Pampa de Leñas (2950 m). Transfer to Punta de Vacas. Permit check by park rangers. First trekking section to Pampa de Leñas, 4 to 5 hours. Setting up camp. Rest and hydration. Grilled meat and vegetables for dinner. Overnight.

Day 4. Casa de Piedra (3250 m). Second trekking section to Casa de Piedra, a beautiful spot with the first view of Aconcagua's east face. Setting up camp again, rest, hydration, acclimatization. Dinner and overnight.

Day 5. Plaza Argentina (4250 m). On this day we climb through the Relincho Valley (the historic route of the 1934 Polish expedition) to Plaza Argentina, the Colossus of the Americas' east base camp. We'll settle into large tents with tables and chairs for comfort, plus setting up sleeping tents. Rest. Dinner and overnight.

Day 6. Plaza Argentina (4250 m). This day we'll rest at this base camp with short walks, hydration and good meals. Also a chance to enjoy the surroundings and its great views. 

Day 7. Camp 1 (5000 m)-Plaza Argentina (4250 m). A load-carrying day for expedition members heading to the summit, up to camp 1 at 5000 m; we'll use this outing to get much closer to the great mountain, at Col Ameghino, next to the peak of the same name. Return to Plaza Argentina in the afternoon.

Day 8: Plaza Argentina (4250). Breakfast. Another rest day. Hydration and good meals. Short walks around the area to explore the camp, one of the largest in the world. Dinner and overnight 

Day 9: Camp 1 (5000 m). Breakfast. First night spent above base camp. We climb the same route as on the load-carrying day.  High-mountain tents. Hydration and meals. Rest. Dinner and overnight.

Day 10: Camp 1 (5000 m). Breakfast. Rest day at Camp 1 with a possible load-carry to Camp 2. Hydration and acclimatization.

Day 11: Camp 2 (5800 m). Breakfast. Climb up to the high-altitude camp 2. Rest, hydration and meals. Dinner and overnight.

Day 12: Cólera (5950 m). Breakfast. A long traverse crossing the mountain from the east side to the north side, to the Normal Route camp, Plaza Cólera. Overnight. 

Day 13: Cólera (5950 m). Breakfast. Rest at Cólera. We prepare for the big day with good hydration and meals. Early to bed.

Day 14: Summit-Berlin/Cólera (6962 m - 5950 ). Very early, we set out on the day we've been waiting for so long. We climb to Independencia (6300 m), then cross the long traverse to the cave and begin the final push up the famous Canaleta to the main north summit of the highest mountain in the Americas. Photos, and after the celebration we begin the long descent to the Cólera camp. Rest and overnight.

Day 15: Plaza de Mulas (4350 m). Breakfast. Descent to Plaza de Mulas. Rest and recovery. Overnight.

Day 16: Horcones (2900 m) and the city of Mendoza. Descent trek to Horcones with mule-carried gear. Transfer to the city of Mendoza, to the hotel. End of the expedition and our services.

Day 17: Extra day in case of bad weather, or a wrap-up day in Mendoza. 

Day 18: Extra day in case of bad weather, or a wrap-up day in Mendoza. 

 

Ask us about booking accommodation in the city of Mendoza.

Good to know

We offer you an installment payment plan in pesos so you can pay for your expedition throughout the year, in cash, by transfer/deposit, or by credit card. 

The total is divided into 10 installments. You reserve with a deposit covering April-May (installments 1 and 2)  and from June to January (installments 3 through 10) you pay monthly, with the price frozen in pesos.

Prior training: We have designed a schedule of outings meant to get you ready for this major goal. Every month we run outings to the sierras and mountains focused on physical, mental and technical training, to be ready for the big occasion of attempting great mountains like Lanín-Tronador-Domuyo-Chañi and many more... 

Before the expedition we offer you an ascent of Cordón del Plata, as prior acclimatization, at 50% of the list price.

 

Important clarifications:
  • The climbing permit includes use of the trails, chemical toilets at the base camps, and medical services, also at both camps. It does NOT include helicopter evacuation. 
  • If someone cannot continue with the expedition for various reasons (their own decision, poor acclimatization, other symptoms or reasons) AEX covers the costs at Plaza de Mulas until the expedition ends (tents, meals). But it does not cover the costs of leaving the program early (wanting to descend to Mendoza sooner), mule, guide, transport, or hotel. Those must be covered by each expedition member.

 

Level of demand - Difficulty rating

Rating for this 16-day Aconcagua ascent: M3-F5-T2-P5-A5

In our trekking, trekking-trek and mountaineering/climbing programs, we rate from 1 to 5 across the four points we consider decisive: backpack, physical, technical and psycho (psychological). 

 

Backpack (M): This point has to do with the weight we have to carry in our backpacks. Treks or expeditions where we have pack animals allow us to carry less weight on our backs. Multi-day treks in Patagonia (without the option of pack mules) generally require us to carry more weight, especially in the first days. 

Physical (F): We consider physical demand to be the strain we may experience, whether aerobic (climbs = possible shortness of breath), muscular (endurance = many hours walking), or on the joints (descents = knees/ankles). 

Technical (T): Technical difficulty is based mainly on the terrain. How hard it is to climb a slope, whether it is very steep, or whether we need to use our hands in some sections (simple climbing), on rock or snow/ice, or gear such as crampons and ice axes on other ascents.

Psycho (P): We believe this point, the psychological factor, especially in ascents, is a significant one. Each person needs conviction, confidence, self-control and willpower to reach a goal. And depending on the attitude with which we face distances, elevation changes, terrain and many other objective factors, performance can vary widely.

Altitude (A): This is the degree to which altitude above sea level affects us based on the activity we are doing. Managing and overcoming altitude-related symptoms is the key to this point. 

 

So, for two-day trips we can give these examples:

 

1- the classic trek with an ascent of Cerro Tres Picos in the Sierra de la Ventana, Buenos Aires province, a round-trip trek with one night camping in the sierras, which we can rate as: M2-F1-T1-P1-A1

 

2- the classic ascent of Lanín Volcano, in Neuquén, with one night at a refuge or in a tent, via the normal route: M2-F4-T2-P3-A2

 

And for 5-day to full-week trips, we can give these examples:

 

1- Round trip and ascent of Nevado de Chañi, Jujuy-Salta, with mule-carried gear

 

a) Trek without a summit attempt: M2-F3-T1-P2-A2

b) Trek with summit ascent (the difference is only marked on summit day): M3-F4-T3-P4-A3

 

2- Crossing the Andes trek via Paso Vuriloche, Patagonia: M5-F3-T1-P2-A1

What is included

  • Professional mountain guides
  • Year-round training plan (50% discount on AEX training)
  • Special discount on outings during the year (see training program)
  • Specific guidance on personal gear and materials. 
  • Transfers from the city of Mendoza to Vallecitos and Horcones (way up)
  • Transfers from Horcones to the city of Mendoza (way down)
  • Significant discount on gear at a specialized store
  • 2 nights in a 3-star hotel in the city of Mendoza (the night of day 1 and the night after the descent)
  • 1 night at a hostel in Puente del Inca
  • Group preparation during the months leading up to the Expedition.
  • Technical safety equipment, VHF radios, mountain first-aid kit. 
  • Stoves and cooking equipment.
  • Base camp service (dining tent, chairs, tables, kitchen) at Confluencia and at Plaza de Mulas.
  • Sleeping tents throughout the expedition.
  • Satellite phone
  • Full board (all meals) throughout the Expedition: breakfasts, energy snacks, lunches, afternoon snack, dinner.
  • Mule-carried general and personal gear up to the Confluencia camp
  • Mule-carried general and personal gear up to the Plaza de Mulas camp.
  • Porter for general gear from Plaza Canadá to Nido de Cóndores (camp 2)
  • Porter for general gear from Nido de Cóndores to Berlín or Plaza Cólera (camp 3)
  • Base camp services and meals at Plaza de Mulas in case someone must descend earlier than planned while waiting for the group.
  • Ongoing support.

Not included

  • Entry permit to Aconcagua Provincial Park and the summit climb (US$218 for Argentines, US$400 for other Latin Americans, and US$800 for other countries).
  • Meals in the city of Mendoza.
  • Meals and lodging beyond those specified in the program.
  • Extra porters for personal gear
  • Tips
  • Costs for evacuation and any transfer within the provincial park (helicopter and mules).
  • Costs for leaving the program early, before the official end date (mules, transport to Mendoza, hotel)
  • Personal gear (see list, ask us for it)
  • Transfers from each passenger's city of origin to Mendoza city (ask about ticket booking)

 

Recommended gear

GENERAL EQUIPMENT
  • Trekking backpack (70 to 90 liters)
  • Duffel bag for mule transport (90 liters or more).
  • Warm sleeping bag ( –15 degrees comfort rating, e.g. 1000g of good down or synthetic fill).
  • Sleeping pad (10 to 15mm).
  • Inflatable sleeping pad (optional)
FEET
  • 1 pair of high-mountain boots (synthetic or plastic double boots)
  • 1 pair of trekking shoes (light boots)
  • 1 pair of lightweight trekking shoes (trail-running type)
FIRST LAYER (Base layer)
  • Changes of underwear.
  • Cotton t-shirts (for camp and sleeping)
  • Synthetic short-sleeve shirts/t-shirts
  • Synthetic long-sleeve shirts
  • Polypropylene or similar pants/leggings (not cotton).  To use as a base layer under warm clothing
  • Thin polypropylene or similar gloves (not cotton)
  • Fleece hat
  • Pairs of thin synthetic or similar socks (not cotton)
  • Buff-type neck gaiter
SECOND LAYER (Warmth)
  • Trekking socks (synthetic-thermal)
  • Thick mountain socks
  • Cotton or wool socks (wool is good for sleeping)
  • 2 pairs of long trekking pants
  • Shorts/swim trunks
  • Warm layers (100-weight fleece or 200-weight fleece)
  • Lightweight down jacket
  • Heavy down jacket
  • Fleece gloves (fingered or mittens)
  • Sun hat
THIRD LAYER (windproof and waterproof)
  • Waterproof jacket/parka (Gore-Tex or similar)
  • Pant cover (Gore-Tex or similar)
  • Third-layer gloves or mittens (waterproof and breathable)
  • Ski gloves (as a backup)
  • Mountain gaiters
TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT
  • Crampons (can be rented)
  • Climbing helmet
  • Trekking poles 
PERSONAL ITEMS
  •  Passport, ID card, national ID.
  • Medical insurance, health insurance.
  • Completed medical and personal form, authorization.
  • Printed and paid climbing permit.
MISCELLANEOUS
  • Headlamp with batteries (plus spare batteries)
  • Sturdy plastic bags to store clothing.
HEALTH & HYGIENE
  • Sunglasses with UV Category 4 protection
  • Spare glasses (ski goggles work too, highly recommended)
  • Personal first-aid kit (medication with the relevant prescription)
  • High-factor sunscreen, lip balm
  • Soap, shampoo (small, to share) and small towel.
  • Toilet paper. Tissues. Baby wipes.
KITCHEN
  • Water containers, 4 liters minimum (2 one-liter bottles and 1 hydration bladder with a 2L hose)
  • Small thermos
  • Personal tableware: Plate, cup / mug, cutlery
 OPTIONAL, not mandatory (depending on space and weight)
  • Silver tape, for blisters and repairs
  • Mate, straw (bombilla) and yerba.
  • Mini sewing kit
  • .Binoculars, monocular. Camera or video equipment
  • .Book, notebook, travel journal, pencil, pen.

 

FAQ

If I've never done mountaineering, can I dream of reaching the highest point in the Americas?

As long as you are physically fit and able to follow the personal and/or group training plan we propose, and can do some prior trekking and mountaineering outings with us or on your own.

I don't have even half of the required gear, can it be rented? What's best to buy?

We'll advise you on this. Basically, almost everything can be rented; in Mendoza there's a store we work with that rents boots, jackets, pants, sunglasses/goggles, crampons, third-layer gloves and much more. There is gear that's better to buy, such as base layers, trekking footwear and clothing, poles, headlamp, some gloves and other items.

How demanding is this expedition really? How much do we walk per day?

We are not walking every day. The expedition is long because the body needs a mandatory altitude acclimatization period; some days we just rest. The longest days are: the one from Confluencia to Plaza de Mulas base camp, with about 10 hours of walking, and summit attempt day (up to 20 possible hours of activity...).

Where do we sleep?

We sleep at mountain camps in comfortable igloo-style tents for 2/3 or 4 people. 

Do I need to bring a tent?

Tents are included in the service. We also include dining tents, structural tents, with tables and chairs

From what age can people do this activity?

From 18 years of age.

How much does the backpack weigh?

Between 8 and 12 kilos up to base camp. 15 kg from base camp upward (except on summit day and rest days; on summit day only what you're wearing, water, headlamp and food)

Is there a portering service?

We have a mule-portering service, which carries the group gear and any personal gear you're not using, up to base camp. 

What do we eat?

On all our expeditions we provide meals on a FULL BOARD basis.

Trail lunches (cold meals): Milanesa and tomato sandwiches, cold cut sandwiches, snack platters, salads, appetizers, etc.

Dinners: Vegetable, bacon and chorizo stew, chicken and vegetable casseroles, pasta with various sauces or stew, grilled meat, chow fan, chicken and rice casserole, pizzas....

Breakfasts and afternoon snacks: Tea, coffee, cappuccino, mate cocido, mate, powdered milk; bread, cookies, jam, honey, dulce de leche; cereal, fruit.

Individual snack bag with energy food: nougat bars, energy bars, nuts, chocolate, alfajores, candy, and more...

It is necessary to complete the personal/medical form to note if anyone has any dietary restrictions.

 

Difficulty graduation

Backpack weight60%
Physical100%
Technical40%
Mental100%
Altitude100%

Scale 0–100%. Argentina Extrema graded difficulty system. How it is measured

Photos and videos

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